Wednesday, August 17th: On the overnight train to Bulgaria myself and the British couple I was sharing a compartment with got woken at 3am by border control. We were meant to arrive in Sofia, Bulgaria at 8:45am but actually arrived at 9:20am.
The British couple and I said goodbye, and then I immediately found myself walking towards Makedonia street with some Belgian and Swiss travellers. We departed after a while and some people along the way gave me directions until I bumped into an Italian traveller looking for the same hostel!
Hostel Mostel – whichs turns out to be the nicest hostel I’ve ever stayed in.
Dropped off my bags and decided to join the Free Sofia Walking Tour at 11am as I was too early to go into my room. I’d never been on a walking tour before and expected it to be really lame and touristic – but it was actually great! Our guide was a very funny historian who was super enthusiastic and made it amazing. They also had lots of other tours to suggest to see more of Bulgaria.
On the way back I walked through a market selling communist era memorabilia and Cathedral of Saint Alexandar Nevski.
Took a walk to the train station and around town for a while before chilling in the common room with the Italian traveller I’d met.
Thursday the Italian traveller and I decided to go on a hiking tour to the Boyana Waterfall. The hike up took about two hours, with a ten minute break, and was super beautiful.
Boyana Waterfall –
and then Boyana Church.
It was a small group and everyone was very friendly.
The tour guide was also very enthusiastic and chatted with us about lots of stuff.
We made friends with some other travellers on the tour, and after, four of us got a recommendation for lunch from our tour guide; the national archive.
A somewhat imposing building, that you can’t enter without giving passport details, turns out to have a café on the top floor with a 360° view of Sofia.
So you can see the weather coming a mile away!
We decided to go to dinner together, too, to a traditional Bulgarian restaurant; Manastirska Magernitza.
One of the other hikers turned out out to be staying in Hostel Mostel so we returned to shower and nap before heading out again.
We all wandered around town after, taking pictures and discussing travelling – and then had to bid goodbye to one of our party. This was surprisingly sad as we’d all known each other less than a day!
We walked back after and went to bed.
Friday I headed to Rila Monastery, a tour which was arranged through the hostel.
They had drivers who drove the two hours out to Rila, which is a lovely drive through some small villages. Going with me were two German and one French traveller.
We stopped into a short hiking route – a short pilgrimage in fact to visit the cave of a monk.
And it turned out you couldn’t come back out from the cave – you had to climb out a small hole in the roof of the cave.
This was actually spectacularly terrifying, even to small woman experienced in circus. But the five of us, including the driver-come-tour-guide survived. We then visited a small chapel dedicated to the mink.
We then carried on to Rila.
We had two hours to walk around.
There was also a lot carefully preserved frescoes.
Also some traditional clothing and information on farming inside some parts of the building.
We left a bit early, as everyone was quite tired, and it turned out it was the driver’s last day before holidays so we figured they wouldn’t mind finishing early.
The next day I would realise I left my travelling partner of five years, Günther, in that car.
I went to the train station and reserved my space on the overnight train to Thessaloniki, Greece. I spent some time before the train in the hostel talking to a Welsh family who’d moved to Bulgaria. When I returned to the train station I bumped into three of the French travellers who’d been on the hiking tour. We chatted until the train arrived – at 11:55pm, 25 minutes late.
I had a compartment to myself this time, which at first seemed great – but then was actually a bit unnerving. But did eventually get to sleep.